HISTORICAL WALK OF CLONAKILTY AND ITS SEA-FRONT
HISTORICAL WALK OF CLONAKILTY AND ITS SEA-FRONTWe maintain our position and turn our sights left from Deasy's Quay and Shipyard and observe the mass of buildings on the hill. This is the Convent of Mercy built on the grounds of Scartagh Cottage. The Sisters of Mercy took up residence here on 30th April, 1856. Fr. Morgan Madden assembled eight hundred children in the old parish church, consecrated them to Mary Immaculate and led them to the convent for the opening of the new school on Mary 19th, 1856. (Before this time the Clonakilty School of Industry for girls, run by Miss Catherine O'Donovan, catered for the poor of the town and district.) The buildings you see today contain a chapel, convent, boarding school, day school for infants, primary and post primary girl students, a theatre and sports hall. This is all far removed from the days of Scartagh Cottage, then known as Mount Shannon. It was once the residence of the Townsend family who were associated with the corporation. In 1783 the Townsends leased the property to a Dr.Wm. Callanan a well known doctor, prosperous merchant and noted United Irish leader in the 1798 period. A noted Protestant champion of Catholic emancipation, William Todd Jones spent eight months in this house in 1802.3 as a guest of Dr. Callanan. On the morning of Robert Emmet's ill-fated rising in Dublin on 27th July, 1803, Callanan and Todd Jones were arrested and conveyed to Cork jail along with a number of others.
Alfred Elmore, a noted artist was born in this house on 18th June 1815, his mother being Dr. Callanan's daughter and his father was Dr. John Richard Elmore, a surgeon who retired from the British Army to Clonakilty. Dr. Elmore did much to develop the linen industry in Clonakilty and his factory near Mill St. (which we met earlier) was the largest in Munster.
A painting by Alfred Elmore can be seen in Westland Row Church in Dublin depicting the "Martyrdom of St. Thomas a Beckett" which was commissioned by Daniel O'Connell.
Behind the Convent and out of view are the Hospital and Mount Carmel Home. It was built as a workhouse to relieve the appalling poverty which existed in the Clonakilty district after the great famine of the 1840's. Clonakilty witnessed many distressing scenes during that period and earned the title "Clonakilty God help us", it being the last resort for many destitute people. It was not, though, a famine workhouse; it was built some time in the 1850's. A census taken in 1851 of workhouses and their inmates does not list Clonakilty. In January, 1887, the newly established Sisters of Mercy in the town took control of the workhouse and a front portion of the buildings were prepared as a convent for the nursing sisters. In 1925 the nuns received full control of the workhouse. They renamed the Hospital in dedication to the Sacred Heart and the home was dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel. Today it is a modern hospital and a home for many elderly people from all over West Cork.
While on the subject of the workhouse, the list of figures available in the 1851 Census of population of Clonakilty gives an idea of the havoc wrought by the Great Famine. In 1841 the population of Clonakilty was 3,998 and the number of unoccupied houses was 63. In 1851 the population was 3, 297 while 184 houses were unoccupied. Thanks to the brewing and linen industries in Clonakilty only about 600 people died or emigrated. Underneath is a table showing the decline in the townlands surrounding the town.
TOWNLAND 1841 1851 TOWNLAND 1841 1851
Scartagh 255 39 Lackanalooha 124 54 Coppeen 18 2 Lisroe 47 15 Ballymacowen 274 145 Inchydoney 235 136 Gullanes 184 75 Kilbree 111 55 Grillagh 195 66 Kilgarriffe 436 223 Cashelisky 128 55 Reenroe 50 21
If we now turn again to the left with our backs to the sea, the sight of the old Railway station may be seen in the form of a level embankment against the hill in the distance. On August 22nd 1881 the Clonakilty Extension Railway Co. was incorporated to lay an 8¾ mile branch from the main line at Gaggin to the town. Gaggin became known as Clonakilty Junction, and the observant traveller may still see the sign boards exclaiming this fact on the road side midway between Bandon and Clonakilty. It was three years before any progress was made and then a contract was signed with John William Dorman, to build the line. He is commemorated by the use of his family crest in the seal of the Company. He appointed Singleton Goodwin as a resident engineer and construction commenced in 1884. Two years later General Hutchinson, the Board of Trade inspector examined the line and passed the railway as being safe for the passage of trains. However, his trip was marred by a tragic accident on route to Clonakilty when his special train ran over and killed the watchman at Gogginshill tunnel, as he was walking in front with a red lamp, in accordance with regulations.
The line was opened for passenger and goods traffic on Saturday 28th August, 1886. Plans to extend the line to Rosscarbery in 1896 never materialised and Clonakilty remained a terminus. The last passenger train left Clonakilty on Good Friday 1961 when the entire West Cork rail system was closed forever.
Before we leave this area we take a last look in the direction of Deasy's Quay. The area at the end of this quay is today called Faxbridge sometimes spelled Facksbridge and was once written Facheen's Bridge, was where the town's gallows once stood. An account is given of the hanging of Donncha Dubh MacCarthy in April 1773 at this place then called Fac's Bridge. It was here, also, at a place called the crab hole that the bodies of the slain rebels of the 1798 insurrection were thrown. These Croppies, as the rebels were called (due to their short cropped hair in likeness to the French Revolutionists) are commemorated by the naming of this thoroughfare "Croppy Quay".
As we move towards the town, on our left we meet the town's little river for the first time as it meets the sea. Its name is the Feale sometimes spelled Feagle, the meaning of which is unknown. It's had, however, other names Gorar and Farla (Lewis' Topographical 1837) and Farlah (Bennett's History). A municipal boundaries map of the early 1800's refers to the river as the Foilagh.
Above us, on a hill to our left is a tall stone building, this was built as a fever hospital. Many years later it became a temporary British Military Barracks, a medical dispensary and finally a post-primary boys school called St. Mary's College which was eventually absorbed into the town's Community College off Ashe Street.
On our left across the river are the grounds of the G.A.A. This club dates back to 1887 when it was founded to promote the playing of Gaelic games. John Sisk, the Cork Contractor who was involved in the building of Clonakilty's cathedral sized Roman Catholic Church, was the driving force behind the new club and also its first captain. Before the G.A.A. was organised, athletics, rugby, hockey, road bowling and rowing were among the activities engaged in. One of the most popular activities of the last century was jumping across the quays from pier to pier at full tide, a distance of about 20 ft.
We now turn left at the end of the by-pass quay and across the river to the next junction. This part of Clarke St., was once called Pound Lane. Now we cross the road turning right into Casement Street. This colourful street, once called Oliver's Lane leads us to the Court House which provides a fine vista closure at the end of the street.
Meanwhile an opening on the left further up the street reveals a building which provides a home for the Community Care Association and the upper floor the band hall for St. Patrick's Brass and Reed Band. The original St. Patrick's Band was founded in 1900 and at that time there also existed Clonakilty Workingman's Fife and Drum Band. Before that in the 1850's was the Clonakilty Temperance Band - its' exotic uniform consisting of blue coats with white braid, white pantaloons and crimson satin caps with gold bands.
The water pump at the centre of the next junction is a charming piece of 19th century street furniture known affectionately as the "Wheel of Fortune". It was part of the Earl of Shannon's water scheme and is still in working order.
The Courthouse and Bridewell dates from 1825 and is described by Lewis in 1837 as follows: "The County Courthouse is a neat edifice of hewn stone, ornamented with a pediment and cornice, supported by two broad pillasters, between which is a handsome Venetian window. Connected with it is a bridewell and both were erected at the expense of the County." A bridewell also existed in this street in what is now a store used by the Urban Council. (Before and during that time petty sessions were also held in the Market House/Town Hall at Barrack St., under the Sovereign (or Mayor) who was also chief magistrate.) Here in the county courthouse petty sessions were held every Thursday by the county magistrates and the general quarter sessions for the West Riding of the county were held here in July.
In 1889 William O'Brien M.P. was arrested in the town. A five day state trial was held in this courthouse, and O'Brien, who was a champion of the people in those troubled times was imprisoned for six months under the Coercion Act. On his release at Christmas, the town witnessed great rejoicing in the streets, but the R.I.C. who feared a riot bayonet-charged the crowd. The courthouse was burned to a shell in June 1921 during the War of Independence.
Today the District Court sits on the 2nd and 4th Tuesday of every month and the Circuit Court three times a year.
Behind the Courthouse the Bridewell contained the Clonakilty Electric Light and Power Co. Ltd. from 1914 - 1930.
We now cross the street to take up a position, with our backs to the courthouse and turn our attention to a neat building on the opposite corner. This building which now houses a bakery was Clonakilty's Linen Hall. The linen industry flourished in Clonakilty from the 1740's and considerable quantities of coarse linen yarn were sold at the Friday markets. The Earl of Shannon erected this spacious linen hall for the accommodation of the dealers soon after 1800. From the early 1820's the industry increased considerably and upwards of ten thousand persons were employed in the various processes of the manufacture in the town and surrounding district. Pigot's Directory of 1824 makes the following observation: "The description of goods manufactured here is peculiar to the county of Cork and called vitries and twills; these are from three quarters, to a yard wide and the average in price is from 4½d to 8d per yard. The market is regularly attended by purchasers from Cork and Bandon who buy on Commission for the English and Scotch houses; and the weekly sales are computed at upwards of £1000. The market is superintended by Mr. Henry Franks, senior seal master. An English gentleman has recently established a large linen manufactory here; but the trade is in general carried on by persons of small capital, who employ from one to four looms. A little cotton is also manufactured." The English gentleman referred to by Pigot was the Dr. Elmore we met earlier whose linen factory near Mill St., was the largest in Munster.
The next street we follow is Connolly Street, its old name was George's St., and it leads us to the next junction where we will pause and look across at the fire station. This modern brick building stands on the site of the old fish market and shambles. This market house was build c. 1820 at an expense of £600. As the town was expanding it seems the building of a second market house was necessary to accommodate the increased activity. The shambles were erected in 1833 by the corporation to accommodate the butcher's stalls. (The original Market House on Barrack St., continued to function, with the Town Hall overhead being used by the corporation and for the petty sessions.)
The stench from the Fish Market and shambles necessitated the building of a high wall between it and a near-by school at the insistence of the school principal.
Having turned left into Kent St., we next come across a building on our right proclaiming the legend "Halla An Bhaile" accompanied by the town coat of arms over its door. This is the "new" Town Hall and was bought by Clonakilty Urban District Council in 1953 when they sold the old town hall at Mac Curtain Hill. Clonakilty U.D.C. dates from 1898, when it replaced the town commissioners, which had the status of an urban sanitary district. These replaced the old Sovereign or Mayor and Corporation which dated back to the charter of 1613. Before this, according to Smith's History the town was governed by a Portreeve and Corporation. (A Portreeve was the title of the Principal Magistrate of a Port town).
This building was originally a school, then it was a masonic lodge. The lodge which was called the Silver Stream was lodge No. 226. The building once belonged to the Episcopal Church and was used by the Methodists while their church was being rebuilt in 1860.
The fine stone building next to the town hall was once the mill of Thomas Hill and Co. Ltd. Now restored from ruins it houses a regional library and is the administrative headquarters for Cork County Council in West Cork. It also contains a meeting chamber for the elected members of Cork County Council West Riding, who meet here monthly. This restored building received the "Europa Nostra" Award in 1987.
This street was once called Meetinghouse Lane, a most appropriate name as we encounter the Methodist Church on our left further along this pleasant street. The first Methodist preacher to visit Clonakilty was Thomas Walsh in 1752. The "Irish Evangelist" of June 11th 1852 wrote of the Rev. Thomas Walsh's visit to the town as follows;
"We find him at Cloghnikilty when he came with a few friends from Bandon to preach. He went a small distance from the town followed by thousands. The Rev. Mr. Ellis who was Sovereign and Magistrate was sent to hinder him, but he preached and on his return was brought before the parson who ordered him to prison. His friends went with him and made the prison walls vocal with the Redeemer's praise while he exhorted the thousands who lingered outside. The inhabitants sent bedding and provisions for him and his friends."
Thomas Walsh returned to the town in 1753 and 1756. It is interesting to note that many of the sermons of these early preachers were given in Irish. The first indoor meetings of the society in Clonakilty were held at the house of Peter Good who lived at Carhoo. There is no record of John Wesley visiting Clonakilty, though he visited nearby Bandon and Kinsale many times, however one of his early preachers was a James Morgan (1731 - 1774) who was born and lived in Clonakilty. The society remained small and in the year 1796 we find them meeting at the home of William Abbot, a well-to-do weaver, in Main St.
Later, when numbers grew the necessity of a regular church became apparent and a building was erected here in 1811 and opened for worship in 1812. It was built on the same site as this church, but was facing east-west and was further back from the street. It also differed from the present church in that it had a gallery. The church we see today was rebuilt and opened in 1860, its architect being James Fitzpatrick. The school which is attached was built in the same year but due to increased numbers a larger one was built at Chapel St., now Oliver Plunkett St., in 1887. The latter now houses the West Cork Regional Museum.
We encounter the river again on our right as we continue along this street, viewing the spires of the churches and the chimney stacks of the old brewery, partly hidden by trees.
Emmet square with its fine Georgian doorways and centre garden opens out in front of us. We will take full advantage of it by turning left to walk around. The square was laid out between 1785 and 1810 to accommodate the wealthy merchants of the growing and prosperous town. It was originally called Shannon Sq., after the Earls of Shannon who were descendants of Richard Boyle 1st Earl of Cork. The gardens in the centre are today called Kennedy Gardens after the Irish-American president. Kennedy has no Clonakilty connections but inspired new hope for the future in many people in the 1960's. Hence, many towns up and down the country named their parks, bridges etc., in honour of him after he was assassinated in 1963.
No. 4 on our left as we walk around the Square was the home of a Miss O'Cleary who was hostess to Éamonn De Valera when he stayed at this house on one of his visits to Clonakilty and addressed a large gathering from an upstairs window. No. 5 was once the meeting place of the Plymouth Brethern who moved here from a room in Myrtle Grove house in the late 1870's under the society leadership of a Mr. Darling.
No. 6 has its entrance on Gaol St., and if we stand at the corner of Gaol St., the building on the opposite corner was the home of Kilgarriffe Church of Ireland National School before it moved to Tobairín Road. Beyond that old school building on a site now occupied by two parish houses was Miss Catherine O'Donovan's Clonakilty School of Industry for girls. Miss O'Donovan's school was set up in 1819 at a house in Old Brewery Lane (Clarke St.), it then moved to Chapel St., and finally moved to its new School House on School Street in 1834. The school was famous for its needlework and embroidery, having the patronage of the British Royal Family. A christening robe made in 1841 for Queen Victoria's first born can be seen in the National Museum of Ireland.
Crossing the road, we come to No. 7. This house was the home of Patrick and Margaret O'Driscoll. Patrick O'Driscoll was the owner, editor and publisher of a Clonakilty newspaper called the "West Cork People". Margaret was an elder sister of Michael Collins, who was born at Woodfield, Clonakilty, October 1890 and was to become one of Ireland's greatest statesmen, soldier and patriot. While the young Michael was attending school at Clonakilty, where he was studying for the British postal service examination, he stayed at this house with his sister from 1903 to 1905. He also helped his brother-in-law, Patrick, to prepare issues of the newspaper and did general reporting jobs. Having passed the post office examination at the age of 15, Michael Collins began employment as a boy clerk at the Post Office Savings Bank, West Kensington, London the following year in July 1906.
No. 8 was the home of Clonakilty Harbour Master, Mr. Thomas Lendrum in 1901 and was to become the first home of Clonakilty Museum, its second being at No. 11 further on. No. 11 was also the premises of the Carbery Club. This gentlemen's Club was founded in the 1890's and survived up to May 1988.
No. 15 in the corner "Glebe House" was a classical school, established in 1808 under the patronage of the Earl of Shannon. It later became a constabulary barracks and also a rectory. No. 16 on the last side of the square was a nursing home run by a Mrs. O'Higgins in the early decades of this century, where many a Clonakilty baby was born. At the corner we take a left into the Old Brewery Lane which contains the extensive buildings of Deasy's Old Brewery. But first we go to the end of the lane to take a look at the convent and grounds of St. Paul's, Bushmount. This convent is built on the site of an older house and is a retirement home run by the Sister's of Charity of St. Paul the Apostle.
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